A hard shell roof top tent is the better pick if you move camp often, camp solo or as a couple, and want to be set up in about a minute. A soft shell suits you better if you want more sleeping room, stay put for a few nights, or want to spend less.
Prices run from under a thousand dollars to well over four thousand, so it pays to get this right. The real risk is not a bad tent. It is picking the wrong type for how you travel in Australia. This guide compares setup time, Aussie conditions, weight, long-term wear and the brands worth a look.
Hard shell vs soft shell roof top tent: what is the difference?
| Feature | Hardshell Rooftop Tent | Softshell Rooftop Tent |
|---|---|---|
| Shell Material | Fibreglass (FRP), ABS plastic, or aluminium | Poly-cotton canvas (260GSM to 320GSM), aluminium base plate |
| Setup Time | 30 seconds to 2 minutes | 5 to 15 minutes depending on design |
| Packed Height | About 18cm to 30cm above roof rack | 30cm to 45cm above roof rack |
| Weight (average) | 45kg to 75kg | 30kg to 55kg |
| Interior Sleeping Space | Limited to the shell size, typically 120cm to 145cm wide | Often folds out past the vehicle, up to 240cm x 140cm+ |
| Bedding Storage When Closed | Yes, bedding stays inside | Thin bedding can often stay inside, but thick bedding makes it hard to fold |
| Aerodynamics on the Road | Better, lower drag | Higher wind resistance, more road noise |
| Ventilation | Depends on window and vent design, can vary a lot | Canvas breathes, generally better airflow |
| Condensation Risk | Higher in cheaper models with poor vents | Lower, canvas absorbs and spreads moisture |
| Weather Protection | Very good, the rigid roof sheds rain and hail | Good with quality canvas, but relies on seam sealing and the fly |
| Noise in Wind | Quieter, no canvas roof to flap | Canvas can flap and get noisy in heavy wind |
| Price Range (AUD) | $2,800 to $6,500+ | $800 to $3,500 |
| Resale Value | Tends to hold value well | Drops faster, canvas wear affects resale |
| Roof Load Impact | Heavier, check the dynamic load rating carefully | Lighter, more roof rack choice |
| Annex Compatibility | Limited, usually needs aftermarket poles and fittings | Easier annex setup, most soft shells have a built-in overhang |
| Best For | Frequent movers, solo or couple touring, multi-stop trips | Long stays, families, tighter budgets, first-time buyers |
| Maintenance | Lubricate hinges and gas struts, clean the shell, check seals | Treat canvas with waterproofing spray, clean zips, air out to prevent mould |
Prices are a rough guide from early 2026. Check each brand’s site for today’s price.
In short, a hard shell saves the most time if you move camp every night or two. For long stays with a family, a large soft shell with an annex gives you more living space.
Clamshell or pop up: which hard shell style is better?
Hard shells come in two main styles. A clamshell hinges at one end and opens like a clamshell on gas struts, so the roof slopes and you get the most head room at the open end. A pop up hard shell rises on all four corners, so you get even head room along the whole tent.
Clamshells tend to be quick and simple to open and close. Pop ups give more sitting room. The RIGDUP Nomad 1.4M is a clamshell.
How long does each one take to set up and pack down?
The setup gap between the two types is real, and it matters more than most people expect. A hard shell opens in 30 seconds to 2 minutes. You undo two to four latches, the gas struts push the lid open, and you are done. Your bedding stays inside between trips, so there is nothing to unpack. Pack-down is just as fast: push the lid down and close the latches. The Nomad 1.4M is up in about 60 seconds with no tools.
A soft shell takes longer. You pull off the PVC cover, unfold the tent body, set the ladder and, on windy nights, peg out guy ropes. That is 5 to 15 minutes, depending on the model and how practised you are. Packing down wet is where soft shells really slow you down. Wet canvas is heavy and stiff, and it needs to dry before you fold it away, or you invite mould into a tent you paid good money for.
If you move camp nearly every night, that time difference changes how arriving at camp feels. Being in bed within two minutes is very different from fighting a cover in the dark.
Which one handles Australian conditions better?
Australia throws everything at your gear: red bulldust on the Gibb River Road, salt air on the Kimberley coast, UV that wrecks unprotected materials in a season, and heavy summer storms. Neither type is perfect for all of that, but each has clear strengths.
In dry, dusty outback conditions, a hard shell wins. The closed shell keeps red dust off your bedding and mattress while you drive. A soft shell cover does a fair job, but dust still finds its way into the folds and zips. For UV, quality 280GSM to 320GSM poly-cotton in a soft shell handles sun well, but the zips and PVC cover wear faster without care.
In heavy coastal humidity, soft shell canvas breathes, which cuts the muggy, clammy feel you can get under a closed rigid shell. Hard shells without good cross-ventilation can trap condensation on warm, humid nights near the coast.
For outback and high-UV touring, a hard shell is usually the better pick. For coastal and tropical camping, where airflow matters more than dust, a well-vented soft shell can feel more comfortable over several nights.
Is a hard shell roof top tent worth the extra money?
This is the question that stops most buyers, and the honest answer is that it depends on how you travel. Hard shells in Australia typically run from $2,800 up to $6,500 or more for premium models like the iKamper Skycamp. Quality soft shells sit between $800 and $3,500. That is a big gap, so know what you are paying for.
With a hard shell, you pay for speed, weather sealing, lower drag and long-term durability. The rigid lid sheds rain, the closed shell keeps dust out, and there is less canvas to treat and re-waterproof. Quality hard shells also tend to hold their resale value well.
Soft shells close the gap on comfort and floor space, but canvas care products, zip lubricant and a new cover down the track add up over time.
If you move camp often on multi-week tours, a hard shell pays you back in convenience. If you are a weekend camper who stays put for two or three nights, a quality soft shell is good value and you will not feel like you are missing out.
Which one is lighter and easier on your roof rack?
Weight is where the real conversation starts. Most people check the tent weight but forget the roof rack, which can add another 20 kg to 45 kg depending on whether it is aluminium or steel. Once you do that maths on a vehicle with a modest roof rating, your choices narrow quickly.
Your vehicle’s dynamic roof rating, found in the owner’s manual, has to cover the tent and the rack together. On some vehicles that leaves little room for a heavier hard shell. The Nomad 1.4M weighs 72 kg, so check your numbers first. Our guide to roof rack weight limits for roof top tents shows how to work it out.
| Feature | Softshell | Hardshell |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Weight | 30kg to 55kg | 45kg to 75kg |
| Packed Height | 30cm to 45cm | About 18cm to 30cm |
| Aerodynamic Drag | Higher, boxy shape | Lower, tapered shell |
| Fuel Impact at 100km/h | Noticeable increase | Moderate increase |
| Best Vehicle Pairing | Lighter SUVs and utes | LandCruiser 200/300, Patrol |
| Dynamic Load Concern | Lower risk | Needs careful calculation |
On fuel, the difference between a tall soft shell and a low hard shell lid is real at highway speed. Over a 2,000 km touring loop, that adds up at the bowser.
How do they hold up after years on Australian tracks?
A lot of buyers judge tents by how they look new, not how they hold up after three seasons of hard touring. Here is what tends to happen over time with each type.
Soft shell long-term wear:
- Zips are often the first thing to go, showing wear and stiffness after 18 to 24 months of regular use without lubrication
- Poly-cotton canvas in 280GSM to 320GSM holds up well against UV, but the PVC cover starts cracking and chalking after two to three Australian summers
- Mould is a real risk if you pack down wet and do not air the tent out within 24 to 48 hours, especially in humid coastal or tropical areas
- Seams need re-waterproofing every one to two seasons, depending on how much rain they see
- Aluminium base hinges can develop play and creaks on corrugated tracks, which is more annoying than serious
Hard shell long-term wear:
- Gas struts are the most common failure point, often losing tension after three to five years of heavy use and needing replacement
- Fibreglass shells handle UV well, but cheaper ABS plastic shells can develop fine surface cracks after long outback exposure
- Hinges and latches are generally reliable on quality brands, but budget hard shells can show latch wear within two seasons
- Red bulldust works into the shell seal over time, so clean it now and then to keep a proper seal
- Condensation inside the closed shell, if not managed, can drip onto your bedding and leave moisture in the mattress foam
Which roof top tent suits your style of travel?
This question cuts through all the spec sheets. The right tent is the one that fits how you really travel, not how you plan to travel.
If you move camp every night or two, cover long daily distances, and travel solo or as a couple, a hard shell is the better tool. You can pull into camp late, open the lid in about a minute, and climb into a bed that is already made. You are not fighting a cover in the dark after a 450 km day on corrugated roads.
If you set up and stay for two or three nights at a time, a soft shell gives you more floor space, better airflow through canvas walls, and full annex options that turn your campsite into an outdoor room. Families with kids gain the most here, because the extra width and annex give more living space.
For first-time buyers still working out how they like to travel, a mid-range soft shell from a brand like Darche or Ironman 4×4 is the lower-risk start. You spend less, learn what matters to you on the road, and can upgrade later.
Which hard top and soft shell roof top tents can you buy in Australia?
You have strong options in both styles at most price points. Where to start depends on what matters most: setup speed, sleeping space, budget or long-term wear. Our best rooftop tents in Australia roundup compares four tents side by side.
On the hard shell side, the RIGDUP Nomad 1.4M is a clamshell for couples. It has 210 x 145 cm of space inside, a 70mm memory foam mattress, an aluminium honeycomb base, a 255W solar panel on a bracket, and a power socket with USB-C, USB-A and 12V. Cross bars and a 2.6 m telescopic ladder come in the box. It sleeps 2, so it is the wrong pick for a family of 4.
The RIGDUP 1.3M is a slightly smaller clamshell. It comes with a 225W solar panel, a 12V socket with Anderson plug and a condensation pad. RIGDUP’s Nomad 1.8M is a fold-out tent with a hard cover. It sleeps 2 to 3, and it is sold out right now.
23Zero makes both hard shell and soft shell tents. James Baroud, a European brand, has made hard shells for many years.
For soft shells, ARB, Darche and Ironman 4×4 cover the mid-range with solid canvas and warranty support across Australia. ARB’s Simpson III comes with an annex and is backed by a dealer network that stocks spare parts around the country. Hannibal makes premium heavy canvas soft shells.
Are there any downsides nobody talks about?
Every brand’s product page tells you why its tent is great. Few list the things that quietly annoy you after six months. Here is what comes up once the new-tent feeling wears off.
Hard shell drawbacks that rarely get mentioned:
- Multi-storey car parks become stressful. Even a low hard shell adds height. The Nomad 1.4M is 18 cm tall closed, plus your rack, and 2.0 m or 2.1 m clearance bars at shopping centres and airports will end your day badly if you forget
- Gas struts do not last forever. After three to five years of regular use, they lose tension and the lid opens slowly or will not stay up. New struts are cheap, but most people do not expect the job
- Condensation under the rigid lid is a real issue in cool or humid weather if ventilation is poor. Cheaper hard shells can drip on cold mornings. See our guide to stopping condensation and mould in a roof top tent
- A closed shell traps heat. On a 38-degree night in Carnarvon with no breeze, sleeping in a hard shell without good cross-ventilation is rough
- Dents and cracks from low branches on bush tracks need fibreglass or panel work to fix
Soft shell drawbacks that do not get enough airtime:
- Packing down wet canvas at 7 am in the rain is miserable, and if you fold it away without drying it, you will grow mould inside a tent you paid $2,000 for
- The PVC cover wears out faster than the tent. UV cracking and chalking are common after two to three summers, and not every dealer stocks new covers
- Canvas can shrink with big temperature swings. Zips that worked in April can be tight on a July alpine trip because the fabric has contracted in the cold
- The folded tent body gets crease marks over time. This does not affect performance much, but it changes how the tent looks and seals at the folds
- Pegging guy ropes on windy nights adds 10 to 15 minutes to setup, and it is the thing soft shell owners envy hard shell owners for most
So which one should you buy?
For most Australian tourers, go with a hard shell roof top tent.
If you cover long distances, move every night or two, and deal with red dust, coastal humidity and changeable weather, a hard shell works better where it counts. A setup of about a minute removes the biggest hassle of roof top camping.
Your bedding stays inside between camps. The shell keeps bulldust off your mattress on corrugated tracks. Lower drag helps on long highway runs, and quality hard shells tend to hold their resale value.
Soft shells are good tents. If you stay put for a few nights, want an annex, or are on a tighter budget, a soft shell is the smarter buy. Still deciding? Our guide on how to choose a roof top tent covers the full checklist.
Want a clamshell hard shell with solar in the box? See the RIGDUP Nomad 1.4M hard shell roof top tent.
FAQs
Can I leave my bedding inside a rooftop tent when driving?
Yes, with a hard shell. The closed shell keeps your sleeping bag, pillow and mattress safe from dust, rain and road grime while you drive. With a soft shell, thin bedding can often stay folded inside, but thick bedding may need to come out each day.
Which type of rooftop tent is better for a Toyota HiLux or Ford Ranger?
Both types can work, but weight matters. Check the dynamic roof rating in your owner’s manual, then add the weight of your roof rack. A lighter soft shell gives you more room to move on a vehicle with a lower rating. A tray or tub rack can also carry more than the cab roof.
Does a rooftop tent affect fuel economy on long Australian highway drives?
Yes, both types add drag. A hard shell’s lower lid usually creates less wind resistance than a tall, boxy soft shell at highway speed. On a long route like Perth to Broome, that difference shows up at the bowser.
Is a soft shell rooftop tent good enough for outback touring in Australia?
A quality soft shell with 280GSM to 320GSM poly-cotton canvas handles the outback well enough, but red dust will work into the folds, zips and cover over time. Regular cleaning and zip lubrication are a must. If you do rough corrugated tracks often, a closed hard shell protects your gear better between camps.
How long does rooftop tent canvas last in Australian conditions?
Quality poly-cotton canvas in a well looked after soft shell often lasts five to eight years in Australia. UV, salt air and mould from packing down wet are the main enemies. Treating the canvas with a waterproofing spray every one to two seasons helps the fabric and seams last longer.
